Kenton Cool climbs Mount Everest for 19th time, setting non-Nepali record

British climber Kenton Cool extends his record with 19 Everest summits as Nepal’s climbing season begins.

British mountaineer Kenton Cool, who reached the 8,849-meter summit of Mount Everest for the 17th time—the most ascents by a non-Nepali—waves upon arrival at the airport in Kathmandu on May 19, 2023. Photo by Nisha Bhandari/AFP

By Widya Putri and Amanda Zahra

British climber Kenton Cool has reached the summit of Mount Everest for a record 19th time, reinforcing his status as the non-Nepali climber with the most ascents of the world's highest peak. Cool, 51, reached the summit at 11 a.m. local time on Sunday, May 11, during a brief weather window that enabled more than 50 climbers to scale the mountain as Nepal’s spring climbing season enters full swing.

The achievement, confirmed in a post on Cool’s official Instagram account, marks yet another milestone in a career that began on Everest in 2004. Since then, Cool has completed nearly annual expeditions guiding clients up the 8,848.86-meter (29,031.7-foot) mountain.

A record that started with determination

Kenton Cool’s journey to Everest greatness is deeply personal and defined by resilience. In 1996, a severe rock-climbing accident shattered both of his heel bones. Doctors told him he might never walk unaided again. Yet, Cool not only recovered but trained to become one of the most accomplished high-altitude guides in the world. His perseverance eventually led to his first successful summit in 2004, launching a two-decade legacy of Himalayan expeditions.

His 15th summit in 2021 had tied him with American climber Dave Hahn for the most Everest ascents by a non-Nepali. The following year, Cool stood alone at the top of that category with his 16th ascent, and he has now added three more summits since.

Climbing Everest amid growing concerns

Cool’s 19th summit comes amid heightened attention to safety and crowding on Everest. This week alone, two climbers—a Filipino and an Indian—tragically died while attempting to reach the top. These incidents have once again raised questions about the risks and logistics of managing such a high number of expeditions.

Nepal has issued 458 permits for the 2025 spring season. With almost every foreign climber accompanied by at least one local Sherpa guide, it is expected that more than 900 individuals will attempt to summit the mountain during the current window of relatively calm winds and favorable conditions. The seasonal climbing surge has created a sprawling base camp town of tents and support staff at Everest’s foot.

Sherpa dominance in the record books

Despite Cool's impressive achievements, he has consistently acknowledged the greater accomplishments of Nepali Sherpas who guide expeditions year after year, often with little global recognition. In a 2022 interview with AFP following his 16th ascent, Cool said, "I'm really surprised by the interest… considering that so many of the Sherpas have so many more ascents."

One of those Sherpas, Kami Rita Sherpa, 55, is currently attempting his 31st summit of Everest—already a world record. His dominance highlights the pivotal role Nepali climbers play in the commercial mountaineering industry and the often-overlooked magnitude of their contributions.

The business of high-altitude adventure

Mountaineering has become a vital economic engine for Nepal. Since the first successful ascent of Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa in 1953, the mountain has grown into a global symbol of ambition and challenge. Each spring, climbers from around the world descend on Nepal, paying tens of thousands of dollars for a shot at the summit.

Last year alone, more than 800 people reached the top of Everest, including 74 from the Tibetan (northern) side. With demand continuing to rise, Everest expeditions now contribute significantly to Nepal’s tourism revenue. This includes income from permit fees, which cost $11,000 per climber, and additional spending on guides, logistics, accommodation, and gear.

However, this booming industry has brought logistical complications and increased risk. Overcrowding near the summit has become a persistent issue, especially during short weather windows when many teams attempt to summit at once. Rescue operations are difficult and dangerous at high altitudes, and even seasoned climbers like Cool face the mountain’s extreme and unpredictable conditions.

Cool’s legacy and the road ahead

Kenton Cool is not just a record-holder but a symbol of endurance, professionalism, and humility. While he continues to make history with each climb, he remains grounded in his respect for the mountain and those who came before him. His continued success has also inspired a new generation of climbers to pursue their own goals with preparation, discipline, and respect for high-altitude environments.

Cool’s latest achievement further cements his reputation, but it also shines a spotlight on broader issues affecting the Himalayan mountaineering community—from climate change and glacial melt to the mental and physical toll on Sherpas and guides who carry the burden of success for paying clients.

As Cool himself prepares for what could be a 20th ascent in the future, the world continues to marvel at his feats while grappling with the deeper questions Everest now poses. What does responsible mountaineering look like in 2025? How can Nepal balance its economic dependence on climbing tourism with the growing challenges of environmental sustainability and climber safety?

For now, Kenton Cool's 19th ascent is a moment of celebration—not just for him, but for the entire community that supports Everest expeditions. Whether he climbs again next year or not, his legacy is secure as the most successful non-Nepali to ever scale the world’s highest mountain.